The whole reason for this design is so the motor can be held in the stand by only the left side half of the crankcase. This will allow the entire motor to be completely disassembled or reassembled while still on the work stand. The work stand will not interfere with any part of the motor including the counter sprocket.

    Here you see the work stand after powder coating and assembly. You can clearly see where the small metal tab bolts the to the flywheel cover bolt hole. On the lower right of the curved piece you can just see one of the 1/4" rods extending into the rear motor mount hole.

Notice how the large pin at the back of the curved peice goes through a hole in the upright piece of the lower section. This allows the motor to be rotated completely while the engine remains on the stand. If you require that the engine be tilted at a particular angle without moving you will have to use a clamp or something to keep it from rotating too freely.

  In this view you can see how the large pin goes through the upright of the lower section, and how it is offset towards the center of the engine for balance. From here you can see how the entire engine can be disassembled from the clutch side while the left side of the crank case stays firmly in the work stand.

Hope this helps! I got very tired of trying to work on these engines while they rolled all over the work bench. Unlike some engines, these just don't seem to have any real flat spots where they will sit stable on a work bench.

If you happen to want me to make you one I charge $80 including shipping. Yea I know, a lot of money, but it took about $10,000 worth of tools to make this.